Embracing the Himalayas: My Journey to Everest Base Camp

Love for trekking started in the year 2022 with a trek to Amarnath shrine. A three day trek gave a purpose and meaning of spending time in midst of majestic mountains.

It was natural to follow up with other treks in Himalayas. A trip to EBC (Everest Base Camp) came to my list naturally. Plan was to do the trek a couple of years later. When my friends, (Prashanth & Vijaya who trekked multiple treks) planned to do EBC in the month of May and persuaded me to tag along, EBC climbed to top of my list.

Preparation: Maintaining a regular exercise routine to build endurance and strengthen leg muscles. I usually walk 15K steps a day. For three months before the trip, did 20 to 30K steps a day and breathing exercises. Walking is key, because you will be walking on average close to 6 to 8 hours a day on high altitudes.

Gear: A solid down jacket (-10 C), Wind cheater, Neck warmer, Gloves, Thermals, Winter Caps, Waterproof Trekking shoes and socks, Walking sticks, Rain Poncho, Water bag or flask to keep water warm for 10 to 12 hours. One needs to cover from cold weather and extreme winds.

D Day: April’27: The day has arrived to begin the journey on one of the toughest trekking destinations in the world. We started with mixed feelings with an anticipation of excitement and a little bit of skepticism on what is going to come.

We touched down in Kathmandu and did shopping of much needed items required.

Organizer (Himalayan Wonders) gave us a brief about the mountains, trek and do’s and don’ts. They provided 10 KG duffle for us to fit our luggage. We packed essentials into duffle bag and left remaining at the hotel. Many hotels provide the facility, you can pick belongings when you return from trek.

April’28: Day of travel from Kathmandu to Ramachep. Flight to Lukla starts from Ramachep. We travelled by a private car to Ramachep and stayed overnight. You can travel on the same day of trek, it will need to wake up early in the morning around 2 AM and drive to Ramachep, that takes 6 hours. 

Day 1: Lukla - The Gateway to Adventure

It all depends on flight from Ramachep to Lukla. Due to unpredictable weather flights are cancelled or delayed frequently. Flights take off whenever the weather permits. We were delayed by couple of hours and finally got a window to fly to Lukla. a small town perched at an altitude of 2,860 meters (9,383 feet). We were put on a ATR of 12 to 14 seater and it is a hair raising and adventurous flight. Lukla has a shortest runway of 500 meters and it requires a skilled pilot who knows the terrain, weather, winds of the region to operate the flight. It was a smooth touch down at Tenzing-Hillary Airport and fun filled 25 min journey.

The group of 14 members were gathered and briefed about the days trek. We exchanged pleasantries and slowly but steadily we were trying to know each other. Guess many were still coming out of excitement of flight journey, did not think much about what is coming for next few days. Ignorance is bliss in moments like these. We all gathered after a nice cup of ginger lemon tea and put forward out first steps towards EBC. Lukla is a nice, small vibrant town among Nepal mountains.  We walked through streets of Lukla and reached the entry to the Sagarmatha National Park at the end of the town.

The trek starts with a descent to the Dudh Koshi River, passing through vibrant villages adorned with prayer flags. It was a 3-hour trek to Phakding. It was fairly easy day as we were descending around 200 meters. Came across shooting spots of the movie Unchai. The day concludes with a stay in Phakding, where you can rest and soak in the serene surroundings. Checked into tea nice, cozy tea house, freshened up and gathered for dinner. Dinner was the best place for bonding. Met other trekkers and exchanged experiences. Team’s bonding Temperatures dropped and night.

Our guide Sabin and assistant guides Ram and BB(Bir Bahadur) helped and guided us through the trail with utmost patience. As part of daily brief Sabin filled us with next day trail about the route, essentials to carry, important tips and locations.

Day 2: Namche Bazaar - Gateway to the Khumbu Region

Today's trek takes you deeper into the Khumbu region, with Namche Bazaar as the ultimate destination. The trail meanders through dense forests, crossing suspension bridges over the roaring river below. We crossed multiple bridges, one being a longest one. This is only ground transport facility used to transfer essentials to upper reaches. As you ascend, you'll be rewarded with stunning views of the snow-capped peaks, including Thamserku and Kangtega. We stopped for a tea break and lunch break. Trail has continuous ascents and descents. We could see the topmost point of peaks that were to be crossed. It was physically challenging and was a test for mental strength. It started to rain during the last hour. We continued our climb on the wet route. After close to 8 hour trek we reached the gates of Namche Bazaar. Namche Bazaar, a bustling Sherpa town, welcomes you with its vibrant markets, charming tea houses, and breathtaking panoramas. The town’s stunning streets filled with trekkers in the middle of mountains is an image to remember. Take time to explore the town, acclimatize, and immerse yourself in the local culture.

Day 3: Acclimatization Day in Namche Bazaar

To ensure a successful and safe journey, acclimatization is crucial. Spend the day in Namche Bazaar, allowing your body to adjust to the increasing altitude. We started our acclimatization day with a hike up to the Everest View Hotel for a mesmerizing vista of Everest and its neighboring peaks. If weather conditions are clear, you would see mountain peaks, including the first glimpse of Everest. Weather god had different plans. Within hour of hike, weather changed dramatically and started snowing. We reached Panorama hotel after climbing close to 200 meters. Everest hotel was 30 mins away, some of us called off trekking further because of low visibility around 5 to 10 meters.  Ten from our team continued and visited the hotel. Their experience was amazing both in terms of Hotel and Food inside. Namche is known for delicious bakeries and lively pubs. We spent time shopping and eating at one of the bakeries. It was amazing to see how good they were baking, easily the best. We made friends from other groups. By today, team bonded well, and we were at ease with each other, cracking jokes, sharing experiences. Some of us started Diamox (tablet that helps with high altitude sickness) and some continued without.

Day 4: Trek to Tengboche Monastery in the Clouds & Debouche

Leaving Namche Bazaar, the trail ascends gradually, offering breathtaking views of Ama Dablam, one of the most iconic peaks in the region. We hiked on the mountain opposite side of Ama Dablam. Walking on the side of a mountain, a valley with Khumbu river and grand standing Ama Dablam was a scene to behold. Moments like these will keep you going on otherwise a difficult trek. It is worth the physical and mental effort that one puts in. First two hours was gradual ascent and we passed through charming villages, cross suspension bridges, and traverse rhododendron forests on your way to Tengboche. Rhododendron flowers were in full bloom on the two sides of trek. It looked like walking down the path to paradise. Gradually ascent became steep and challenging. It started snowing and the trail started becoming wet and muddy. We traversed through the trail carefully, reached Tengboche monastery by evening. Monastery surroundings was blanketed with snow. It was a magical view. We visited monastery and had a nice coffee at the bakery next door. Nestled at an altitude of 3,870 meters (12,694 feet), Tengboche boasts a picturesque backdrop of Everest, Lhotse, and Nuptse. We continued our journey to Debouche for night stay. I could feel the low level of oxygen for the first time in 4 days. It would become much more evident as we progress to EBC.

Day 5: Dingboche - Gateway to the High Himalayas

The trail to Dingboche reveals stunning alpine landscapes and captivating mountain vistas. Ascend through birch and juniper forests, and emerge into open valleys where yaks graze peacefully. You will see 360-degree view of never-ending mountains. Gradually vegetation starts disappearing. The terrain becomes steeper as you approach Dingboche, which lies at an altitude of 4,410 meters (14,468 feet). Enjoy the breathtaking views of Island Peak and the towering Ama Dablam. Dingboche provides another acclimatization opportunity, allowing your body to adapt to the increasing altitude before continuing higher. We reached by evening and settled into our tea house. After an hour or so, started snowing heavily. Weather was quite cold running into minus degrees. By now hot water was a luxury and shower was ultra luxury. Prices of bottled water, hot water have become 3 times more than Lukla. Hot shower was charged because it was running on Gas cylinders. Transporting gas and other necessities is a herculean task. Kudos to locals who carry goods on their backs and some use Yak’s for transportation. If not for them, trek would be much more difficult. They do use helicopters but that will very expensive. Three from our team ventured into Café 4410 (a popular bakery) and enjoyed their time. Missed out on this one.

Day 6: Acclimatization Day in Dingboche

We spend another day in Dingboche for proper acclimatization. A short hike up to Nagarjun Hill provides a panoramic view of the Everest massif, including the formidable Lhotse-Nuptse ridge. We started in the morning and climbed around 200 meters. Slowly snow fall started again. We climbed back before snow became worse. Omi(from our team) and Ram (our guide) started early in the morning and summitted Nagarjun hill at an altitude of 5000 meters. Played card games to kill time. We celebrated Omi and Ram’s summit, teams successful climb for 6 days amidst challenging terrains and incessant weather. By evening, skies cleared. A breathtaking view emerged from darkness. A full moon next to Ama Dablam and stars in the sky is easily a wallpaper pic. We soaked in the experience, took pictures and videos. We called it a day after a dinner and were super excited for next days as we would finally see mount Everest.

Day 7: Lobuche - Approaching the Roof of the World

Leaving Dingboche, the trail takes you closer to Everest. Ascend gradually, passing through the village of Thukla situated at 4620 m, where you'll find memorials honoring climbers who lost their lives on Everest. They are remainders of ones goals, sacrifices and bravery. It also reminds of the dangers associated with Everest summit. The scenery becomes more rugged and barren as you reach Lobuche, situated at an elevation of 4,930 meters (16,175 feet). By now, vegetation has almost disappeared. The anticipation builds as you catch glimpses of the Khumbu Glacier and the stunning peaks that guard the path to Everest Base Camp.

Day 8: Everest Base Camp - A Triumph of Perseverance

The most anticipated day of the trek has arrived. The trail leads you across the glacial moraine, offering awe-inspiring views of icefalls and seracs. We started early in the morning as the excitement of finally reaching Everest Base Camp. We trekked for 3 hours or so to reached Gorak shep, the last village standing before EBC. The trek reached to difficulty level and could feel for oxygen. After a quick lunch we started our final push to EBC. We could see Khumbu glacier and camps in yellow and orange colours on the way. It took close to 3 hours to reach base camp. The path was narrow, treacherous, tough. At some places, we were literally walking on piled up stones from landslides. We could see stones rolling down from adjacent hills and hear noises of breaking ice somewhere in mountains. It was both frighting and exciting. Path was narrow between Khumbu glacier and a mountain. The final stretch brings you to Everest Base Camp, an achievement filled with triumph and awe. Standing at the foot of the world's highest peak, you'll witness the determined climbers preparing for their summit attempts. Take in the grandeur of the Khumbu Icefall and the surrounding peaks, capturing memories that will last a lifetime. Everyone was excited to make it this far. Took photos and videos, spent time to soak in the achievement. Atmosphere was surreal. The sheer size of Everest and surrounding mountains, Lhotse, Nuptse shows how small we are before the nature. It was once in a lifetime experience. After spending and hour or so we returned to tea house in Gorak shep. We celebrated the achievement with great fulfilment. Celebrations continued for couple of hours congratulating and complementing each other. Best of all was a Krishna ji birthday.  

Day 9: Descending to Lukla - Reflection and Farewell

Some of us took helicopter back to Lukla. It was adventurous coz the way pilots were landing and operating between the mountains at high altitude. We reached Lukla in two stops, but overall journey was 25 mins. 8 days of distance is covered in 25 mins. Arriving in Lukla, celebrate your achievement, raise a toast to the mighty Everest, and bid farewell to the Khumbu region that has left an indelible mark on your soul. We could not get flight back to Ramachep as the climate was not suitable. We stayed in Lukla the night and boarded the first flight. Reached Khatmandu by noon to check in and have a nice hot shower. Day to rest and relax after all the hard work.

Conclusion: A Journey to Remember

Embarking on the trek to Everest Base Camp is an unforgettable experience that tests your physical and mental endurance. Each day brings new challenges and rewards, allowing you to immerse yourself in the beauty of the Himalayas, connect with the Sherpa culture, and push your limits. The journey to Everest Base Camp is not just about reaching a destination; it's about the personal growth, resilience, and the transformative power of nature. It's a journey that will forever be etched in your heart and soul, inspiring you to seek new heights both on and off the mountains. It is a place where you connect to complete strangers and realize how similar many of us are. Our group started as individuals, became friends on the way and turned into a family.

Special thanks to our leaders, Sabin (Leader), Ram and BB (Assistant guides). Their knowledge about the terrain was immense. Their constant encouragement, being patient with our weaknesses, helping us overcome difficulties, playing multiple roles of guide, hospitality, caretaker etc is not easy and they come out with flying colors in all departments. These guys are amazing and offer you a lot of life lessons that we take for granted. Sincere thanks to them. Thanks to porters who carried our luggage.

The Team: Vijaya, Krishna, Nikita, Tonishta, Aditi, Pallavi, Latha, Prashanth, Sanjeev, Sai, Giri, Nikhil, Omi. Thank you everyone for being there throughout the journey. 

Finally if it is not for my wife, I would not have taken up the journey. I was in two minds, but my wife and kids gave the courage and strength  to embark the difficult journey and achieve once in a life time  dream. Forever thankful for the greatest support and for being on my side.